Hurricane season runs June through November, and Central Florida storms have a way of stalling overhead and dumping rain by the inch. A few plumbing moves before the first watch goes up can save you a miserable cleanup later.
Know where your main water shutoff is and make sure it actually turns, an old gate valve can seize. Clear gutters and yard drains so water moves away from the house. Fill a few jugs for drinking in case service is interrupted, and if you're on a well, remember your pump runs on electricity, so no power means no water.
If you have a crawlspace, low garage, or lakeside lot, your sump pump is the thing standing between you and an indoor pond. Test it before the season starts. Here's the cruel irony of our climate: the same storm that floods your pit usually knocks out the power that runs the pump. A battery backup is the fix. We push it hard in the lightning capital of the country for good reason.
If the power's out, turn your electric water heater off at the breaker so it doesn't try to heat an empty or low tank when power flickers back. If a boil-water notice goes out, follow it. Don't run a gas tankless unit's recirculation during an outage.
Check for new leaks, a tripped water-heater breaker, and any drain that's suddenly slow. Storm surge can push debris and groundwater into sewer lines. If something's backing up or you've got water where it shouldn't be, call us; we run 24/7 through storm season.
Hurricanes bring sewer-system overload. When municipal storm drains and sanitary sewers exceed capacity, backflow into homes becomes a real risk. Lower-floor toilets, tub drains, and floor drains can backflow with contaminated water if the line gets overloaded.
Prevention: a backwater valve installed on the home's main sewer line. This is a one-way check valve that lets sewage out but blocks anything from coming back in. Cost runs $850 to $2,200 installed depending on access and existing line condition. Worth considering if you have ever had a backup during a storm.
If you do not have a backwater valve, the alternative during a forecast severe storm: plug your lowest floor drains with rubber plugs or sandbags. Not as good as a permanent valve but better than nothing.
Once power returns and the storm has passed, walk through the plumbing system in this order. First, listen for any sound of running water with all fixtures off. Damaged supply lines under the slab or behind walls can leak silently for hours before becoming obvious.
Second, check your water heater. Power surges during storms can damage electric water heater elements and gas water heater control valves. If your water is cold or lukewarm after the storm, the heater needs attention.
Third, run every drain in the house for 30 seconds. Any drain that gurgles, backs up, or smells strongly likely has storm debris or sewer overflow contamination. Snake or jet the affected lines before the problem grows.
Fourth, check outdoor cleanouts for displaced caps or debris in the line. Wind-driven flooding can wash leaves and debris into cleanouts that were not properly sealed.
Fifth, inspect the area around your water meter for ground subsidence or visible leaks at the connection. Hurricane wind and rain can shift soil around the supply line.
Yes, if you are evacuating or if the home will be unoccupied during the storm. Shutting the main prevents catastrophic water damage from a burst pipe or wind-broken supply line while you cannot respond. If you are staying through the storm, leave the main on so you can use water as needed.
Rarely but possibly. Hard freezes hit Greater Orlando once every 5 to 10 years on average. When they do, exterior hose bibs and uninsulated attic pipes are vulnerable. Disconnect garden hoses before any forecast freeze and drip interior faucets if temperatures will be below 28F for more than a few hours.
Gas water heaters with standing pilots continue to produce hot water through a power outage. Newer gas heaters with electronic ignition will not work without power. Electric heaters obviously do not work without power. Plan accordingly if you have an electric heater and lose power for extended periods.
Stop using all fixtures immediately. Backups during storms usually indicate the sanitary sewer is overloaded; running more water makes it worse. Wait until the storm passes and call a plumber after power and city services are restored. Document any damage with photos for insurance.
Only if your home has a sump pit, which is uncommon in slab-on-grade Orlando construction. Homes with crawlspaces or finished basements (rare in Greater Orlando) often have sump pumps and benefit from battery backups. For most Orlando homes, the backup conversation is more about the water heater and main breaker than sump pumps specifically.
The Orlando plumbing issues that matter most are usually the ones that get worse over time. Catching them early saves money and avoids the worst-case outcomes. If anything in this post matches what you are dealing with, a phone call with a licensed local plumber is the fastest path from question to answer. The phone quote is free.
We work all of Greater Orlando across Orange, Seminole, Volusia, Lake, Osceola, and Polk counties. Same-day response for most calls. Around-the-clock dispatch for emergencies. Florida-licensed plumbers, permit-pulled work, firm prices before any work starts. Call (407) 964-8940 to talk to someone now.
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